Ring Settings Guide
THE ANATOMY OF AN ENGAGEMENT RING
Head - It refers to the part of the setting that holds the center stone, including the prongs.
Center Stone - The gemstone that is the highlight and focal point of the ring.
Prongs - A prong is a metal tip, bead or arm that holding the stone in place. This style of setting usually has four or six prongs, allowing the maximum amount of light to enter a stone from all angles.
Side Stones - Gemstones placed beside the central gemstone to add extra brilliance.
Gallery Rail - Adds strength to the head and helps protect the central gemstone.
Shoulders - Function as transition areas and are often set with accent gems.
Bridge - Helps the ring fit comfortably. It also holds the head of the engagement ring and sometimes smaller gem settings.
Shank - Provides a firm foundation for the gem settings and influences the ring’s style.
SHANK GUIDE
Below are some of the most commonly seen types of ring shanks.
PAVE
This describes how the pave engagement rings have a shank that is “paved” in small diamonds, creating a sparkling avenue that gives the illusion that the shank is made entirely of diamonds and making the center stone pop. The pave style on the shank are set close together, separated by very small metal beads.
Benefits
- Pave settings are a great way to add additional sparkle to your ring.
- It helps emphasize the center stone to make it look bigger than it is.
FISHTAIL
Fishtail Pave is a style in which small diamonds of the same shape are set in extremely close proximity. This mass formation effectively coats the metal surface. The gems are separated by and held in place by little “v'”s of the setting metal.
Benefits
- Creating the illusion of larger stones
- It helps emphasize the center stone to make it look bigger than it is.
CATHEDRAL
The cathedral setting features a centre stone flanked by arches of metal that come up from the shank. It maximizes the amount of light that enters the diamond to enhance its brilliance, which also minimizes the visibility of inclusions.
Benefits
- It usually works perfectly when stacked with a wedding band.
- It’s entirely customizable making it incredibly versatile for every style of design aesthetic.
SPLIT
A split-shank engagement ring is a style featuring a band that parts as it reaches the center setting. Typically, these designs will have a visible gap between the band and the center diamond or halo. This can have the effect of making the ring appear larger and more ornate.
Benefits
- The dual construction of a split-shank setting means that it’s highly secure.
- It also works well for many different diamond shapes and can accommodate halos.
KNIFE - EDGE
A knife edge shank features a sharp edge that goes around the outer edge of the shank of a ring. It effectively divides the ring band into two parts, which meet at the center or the knifepoint.
Benefits
- It can make the center diamond or gemstone look bigger.
- It creates an optical illusion of a thin band.
BEAD SET
Bead set gemstones are placed on top of a small hole that is drilled on the surface of the metal. Once the stone is positioned properly, small beads of metal are raised from the surrounding surface to hold it in place. Bead setting is perfect for adding accent diamonds to an engagement ring.
Benefits
- It offer extra security and protection.
- Produces continuous sparkles and has a delicate beauty.
MICRO PAVE
Micropave Pave is a general term used to refer to any type of setting with pave-set diamonds. Micro pave refers specifically to very small diamonds (typically less than 0.01 carat) that are uniform in size and set using very small prongs.
Benefits
- It draws attention to the center stone.
- The numerous small diamonds that line the band, the ring’s sparkle extends beyond the center diamond to the ring itself.
CHANNEL
A channel set engagement ring is basically a solitaire diamond ring with diamonds set on the shoulders. The diamonds are set in a row between a gold or platinum band and secured by grooves on both walls in between the strips of metal.
Benefits
- Diamonds are secure in the setting.
- Less risk of diamonds getting caught or snagging.
TAPERED
A tapered style is one where the shank either tapers off towards the center gemstone, or tapers outwards along the band as it circles under the finger.
TWIST
The metal of the shank twists, creating a lovely interlacing design around the finger. The twist can either be very tight or looser. This is usually dependent on whether the shank is pave or just metal.
Benefits
- Provides additional support to the center stone and reinforces the ring structure.
- Adds a stylish and unique touch to the ring.